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Ikat: A Beautiful Art of Fabric Weaving in Yazd

Los Angeles Home of Rugs on Jun 29th 2023

Ikat, known as "Darayee Bafi" in Persian, is a type of fabric woven by interlacing threads of silk or cotton, which are pre-dyed using a tie-dye technique. This art form is prevalent in the city of Yazd and is used for tablecloths, bedspreads, and upholstery.

Darayee, also known as Ikat, derives its name from the Malay word "Mengikat," which means tying and binding. This beautiful art is called "Darayee" in Persian because only the wealthy could afford to purchase it, and in the past, it was considered a valuable asset and part of a bride's dowry. Darayee is used for tablecloths, rolls, upholstery, garment decoration, scarves, quilts, and more.

Some of the patterns used in Darayee include single flowers, four flowers, and four squares. Typically, Ikat is woven in specific dimensions, usually 30 meters in length and 90 centimeters in width.

Yarn used in Darayee weaving
In the past, pure silk was used as the raw material for Darayee, but nowadays, artificial silk is commonly used. For example, viscose yarn is used for the warp, and artificial silk or viscose rayon filament is used for the weft.

Dyeing the Darayee threads
The threads are dyed using special methods before weaving. In the past, natural dyes were used, such as indigo for blue, madder and cochineal for red, tree bark and flowers for yellow, and various mineral and earthy substances for black. Nowadays, these natural dyes are rarely used, and chemical dyes have replaced them.

The process of Darayee weaving
To produce Darayee, bundles of fiber threads are tied, bound, and immersed in dye baths. After dyeing with different colors, the fibers are untied and attached to the Darayee loom. By passing the weft threads, geometric patterns with interwoven colors are created.

Types of Darayee Weaving
Darayee weaving is done in three methods: warp Darayee, weft Darayee, and warp and weft Darayee.

- In the warp method, the warp threads are tightly knotted at suitable positions according to the desired pattern, and then they are immersed in the dye bath, ensuring that the tied portions remain colorless during dyeing. This technique is common in Southeast Asia but was unknown in East Africa. Warp Darayee is the first type of Darayee weaving.

- In the weft method, the weft threads are intricately wound onto a rectangular frame, categorizing the threads that should create specific patterns, and then they are knotted using non-permeable threads.

- In the warp and weft method, the dyeing of warp and weft threads is done through the tying technique, making the process highly complex. Firstly, the dyed warp threads are placed on the loom, followed by winding the weft threads onto the shuttles, and then a fabric with a simple design is woven. The warp and weft Darayee method is the most labor-intensive and expensive compared to the other methods.

Darayee weaving is a time-honored art form that showcases the skill and creativity of artisans. It represents a cultural heritage and a testament to the rich history of textile craftsmanship. The intricate patterns and vibrant colors of Darayee make it a cherished fabric, admired for its beauty and it is recognized as one of the cultural and artistic symbols of Persia.