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Persian Rugs: Dyeing process

Los Angeles Home of Rugs on Jan 27th 2022

Dyeing has been practiced in Persia for hundreds of years in which textile products such as fibers, yarns, fabrics, or clothes are soaked in a calculated mixture of pigments and other components.

The famed Pazyryk rug, found in 1949 in the grave of a Scythian nobleman in the Bolshoy Ulagan dry valley of the Altai Mountains in Kazakhstan, originally belongs to the Achaemenid-era Persia (c. 550 – 330 BC). It bears yellow, red, blue, and green proving the long history of dyeing in Persia.

The Safavid era (1501–1736) has witnessed the development of dyeing and rug handicrafts. Some of the colors used at that time were crimson red, blue, green, pale yellow, and orange, and what is interesting is that the Safavid colors were very similar to the pigments used today.

Using their creativity, the dyers have mixed the pigments, making hues that are slightly different. For example, two colors of violet and red are combined to make a very bright magenta. Then by adding rich yellow pigments, it turns into persimmon orange.

The dyeing process is done in multiple steps. Firstly, the wool or silk is soaked in warm water for about two hours to be prepared for absorption. Then they are washed in 30-35 centigrade water and detergents and later rinsed and dried. The next step is adding different alum types known as green, white, and black to nearly boiling water.

Alum is a chemical sulfate that raises the absorption of pigments and the stability of color. The amount of alum and duration of this step depends mainly on the intended color.

The dyeing pot is raised to about 100 centigrade for the next step. The yarns and the intended pigments are mixed and boiled together for about an hour.

Every five minutes, the mixture is stirred using a wooden spatula. Later the dyeing pot is left so that its temperature decreases gradually. Finally, the yarns are dried in sunlight.